Alteration - Changes made to chnage the fit of a garment.
Baste - a method of temporarily joining fabric using large stitches which
are easily removed.
Bias Tape - strips of fabric which are cut from the bias of the fabric ..
usually folded on two edges and sometimes folded again for edging... the bias allows it to smoothly follow curves.
Clean Finish - stitch 1/4" from the edge and press to wrong side. If the
raw edge will not be stitched down in another step, stitch down.
Contour - with a curve - for example: a pattern may be described as having
a contour waistline. This means that the waistband is cut on a curve verses cut out as a straight band. This usually lends
it self to a better fit.
Directional Stitching - Stitching in a particular direction to maintain
Ease - a way of making one piece of fabric fit on to another by evenly pulling
in the extra fabric with out making any gathers or tucks in the larger piece of fabric .. this is necessary in may areas of
garments in order to have proper fitting and ease of movement in the finished garment.
Edgestitching — A row of stitching that appears on the very edge of
a garment, normaly 1/8” or less from a seamline, foldline or finished edge. Thread matches the fabric color. Fabric
diagonals - A fabric that is printed on a diagonal, many patterns state "not suitable for diagonal fabrics, this is means
that due to the pattern design it will be impossible to match diagonal prints or designs.
Flat Felled Seam - a very durable seam, usually seen on jeans.
French Seam - A seam which is completely enclosed
Gather -- a method of pulling fabric together to create fullness.
Grainline - refers to the way the threads make up the fabric.
Grade Seam - trim one layer of the seam allowance shorter then the other
layer to eliminate bulk. For example: a facing seam allowance would be trimmed shorter on facing part of the allowance and
longer on the body seam allowance.
Hair Canvas - a form of interfacing - high quality which lends itself to
molding for areas such as firm blazer rolled collars. Hair canvas is a woven interfacing available at any quality fabric store.
Moderate Stretch Knit - usually found in the suggested fabrics area on a
pattern envelope. There is usually a ruler type diagram on the same envelope which demonstrates the amount of stretch the
fabric will need to have. For example: A lycra spandex fabric in comparison to a tee shirt type knit.
Notch - A small cut into the seam allowance which will allow fabric to bend
at curves and corners.
Pattern Layout - directions for the way to lay out a pattern
Pile - the nap of the fabric - when the fabric is brushed in one direction
it looks like a different color - velvet and corduroy are classic examples. Lay all pattern pieces so that the pile is going
in it's natural direction... for example... the down pile would be down the leg. - refers to laundering the fabric before
you begin cutting or sewing.
Rolled Hem - 1. fold raw edge under 1/8 to1/4" and then 1/8 to 1/4" again,
enclosing raw edge. Topstitch to hold hem. 2. A serger stitch which rolls the fabric and encloses the edge with thread.
Satin Stitch - A zig zag stitch with a shortened stitch length to create
stitches that look horizontal to each other.
Selvage - the edge of raw fabric which is unable to fray... usually has
company info +/or color matching dots.
Seam Allowance - the area of fabric that is between the seam stitching and
the cut edge
Separating zipper - A zipper which completely separates, such as for a jacket
or sweater. The bottom of the zipper has metal tabs for starting the pull, while a regular zipper it clamped together to not
Staystitching - Stitching done to stabilize fabric and helps pieces fit
together even after handeling.
Stitch In The Ditch - a method of understitching - press seam allowances
to one side and top stitch as close to the seam as you can to hold the seam allowance down and cause the piece of fabric to
stay folded under. For example: When you are attaching a facing, if you stitch in the ditch on the facing side of the seam,
the facing will stay turned into the garment and give you a clean edge.
Top Stitch - A row of stitching, visible on the finished product. Can be
functional or decorative.
Understitching - Stitching done very close to the seam line, sometimes refered
to as "stitch in the ditch".